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Body of Climber Nirmal Purja Recovered After Himalayan Avalanche

Yesterday, rescue teams recovered the body of Nirmal Purja and three others following an avalanche that swept away a 10-member international expedition.

Veteran mountaineer Nirmal Purja, whose body was recovered following an avalanche on Broad Peak.
Veteran mountaineer Nirmal Purja, whose body was recovered following an avalanche on Broad Peak. Photo via AP India

The Himalayas have become increasingly hazardous for mountaineers as rising temperatures destabilize glaciers and alter snowpack conditions, making avalanches and icefall collapses more frequent and less predictable. Warmer weather also shortens the traditional climbing windows, forcing expeditions into narrower periods when overcrowding on popular routes like Everest amplifies the risks. Indian authorities and research bodies have documented a pattern of earlier snowmelt and more extreme weather events across the range, linking these changes directly to the growing danger for climbers in recent seasons.

The body of veteran Nepalese-British mountaineer Nirmal Purja was found on Sunday at an altitude of around 5,700 metres on Broad Peak, three days after an avalanche swept away a 10-member international expedition on the 8,047-metre mountain in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan region (The Hindu). The Alpine Club of Pakistan identified the recovered climbers as Purja, Chinese national Wang Zhong, and Nepali Sherpas Nima Sherpa and Kili Pemba Sherpa (AP India). A ground rescue team reached the location on Sunday, sighting three additional bodies alongside Purja, though their identities remain unconfirmed (The Hindu).

The recovery pushes the total number of retrieved bodies to five, with efforts continuing for the five remaining missing climbers (The Hindu). On Friday, rescuers had located four bodies but managed to recover only three — Omani national Nathira Ahmed, American Mallory Geis, and Nepalese Bahadur Gurung — before harsh weather grounded search-and-rescue helicopters (AP India). Military-backed teams resumed the search on Sunday while ground crews worked to transport the latest finds down to the Japanese camp under extremely difficult terrain conditions, as steep slopes and avalanche risk prevented helicopter deployment (The Hindu).

The avalanche struck on Thursday, July 30, as the team led by Purja — widely known as Nims Dai — attempted the summit of the world’s 12th-highest peak, situated in the Karakoram range near K2 (The Hindu). The expedition comprised five Nepali climbers, one Pakistani, one Omani, one American, and one Chinese national (The Hindu). Among the missing is Pakistani guide Sohail Sakhi, a geographer and high-altitude photographer described by his company, Moving Mountains, as being on what was expected to be his final expedition (AP India). On Saturday, Purja’s enterprise, Elite Exped, announced that all members of the group had perished (The Hindu).

Purja, 43, was a former British Army soldier who gained global renown in 2019 by climbing all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres in a record 189 days, a feat chronicled in the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible (AP India). He was on the verge of completing a second round of all 14 eight-thousanders when the avalanche hit (The Hindu). Alpine Club of Pakistan President Major General Irfan Arshad called the tragedy “an immeasurable loss to the global mountaineering fraternity,” praising the military, civilian rescuers, and Sherpas involved in the search (AP India).

The disaster has drawn renewed attention to shifting risk patterns in the high Himalayas and Karakoram. Experts noted that avalanches of such magnitude are atypical for July, a month historically considered outside the primary avalanche window of February to April, which follows peak winter snowfall (Indian Express). Dr Hasan Raja Naqvi, Assistant Professor of geography at Jamia Millia Islamia, told The Indian Express that climate change is visibly altering the Western Himalayas, citing a University of Geneva study documenting increased avalanche occurrence in recent decades (Indian Express). Compounding the environmental hazards, mountaineers face persistent overcrowding on popular routes, forcing climbers into bottlenecks where delays at extreme altitude can prove fatal (Indian Express). As recovery operations continue on Broad Peak’s unforgiving slopes, the fate of the five still missing remains unresolved.

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AP India·The Hindu